Charcoal Lane gets lip-smacking seal of approval from The Age
- Created on Tuesday, 17 July 2012 11:28
Gabriella is full of praise for the Fitzroy restaurant and head chef Andy Bedford, who since coming on board in February has “reinvigorated” Charcoal Lane’s indigenous focus.
“He uses native ingredients subtly,” she writes, “but that doesn't stop him from slipping some show-stopping items on the menu, such as a starter of wallaby tartare - a brilliantly flavoursome, mound of finely sliced marsupial, served with crisp breads, a smear of mayonnaisey egg-yolk gel and some lovely sweet-sharp chutney.
“The dish exemplifies Bedford's meticulous touch - and, for me, it's a standout.” Gabriella also gives thumbs up to the and restaurant’s décor and “sense of warmth”, which she puts down to the service provided by our hardworking floor staff, most of whom are still relatively new to the hospitality industry.
Read the full review in The Age to find out Gabrielle’s thoughts on the oyster starter served with a “dash of delicate rosella flower dressing and Yarra Valley salmon roe”; a mushroom, spinach and Persian fetta encased in a buttery brik pastry and served with pepperberry pickled beetroot; and the spiced root vegetable soup.
The mains, a paperbark-smoked barramundi on a bed of fennel, pea and native mint ''risotto'', and the wildfire spiced kangaroo loin with a pomme puree, winter vegetables and a cherry and espresso jus also went down a treat.
“Charcoal Lane doesn't need my sympathy vote,” Gabriellea concludes, “It gets my well-satisfied-stomach vote.” The score: a very respectable 14/20. Well done to everyone at Charcoal Lane for making such an impact!
Now it’s your turn to taste…
You’ve read what the food critic has to say, now see for yourself by booking a table at Charcoal Lane, 136 Gertrude St, Fitzroy, Melbourne. Open Tuesday to Saturday from 10am to 3pm and 6 to 10pm. Call (03) 9418 3400 or visit the Charcoal Lane website.